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A Graceful Rebirth – of Panthère de Cartier

By Caroline Suganda

A new construction for the bracelet allows for a more supple and smooth wrap around the wrist. Purposely worn slightly loose, it should fit like a slinky bracelet.
 
Sophia Coppola & Andrew Durham
A new construction for the bracelet allows for a more supple and smooth wrap around the wrist. Purposely worn slightly loose, it should fit like a slinky bracelet.

We live in an era full of nostalgic nods to the past, the ’80s in particular. Netflix Original Series’ “Stranger Things” has become way more popular than we thought; the science-fiction series set in the ’80s is reportedly one of the streaming company’s most-watched TV shows. Vibrant kistchy spandex leggings were back at Balenciaga, and mini dresses with sweetheart neckline dominated Anthony Vaccarello’s debut collection at Saint Laurent, while intense blush draped from cheekbones to the temples at Kenzo’s show.

If we talk about reliving the ’80s with the
 quintessential timepiece of the decade, many will reference a square face, chain bracelet watch by Cartier — Panthère de Cartier (Panthère for short) — that was introduced into the market in 1983. Known for being elegant and sophisticated, yet sexy and fun, it became the perfect emblem capturing the zeitgeist of the ’80s. Michael Douglas wore its yellow gold version as Gordon Gecko in the 1987’s movie “Wall Street”. Pierce Brosnan, in his pre-Bond days, wore the same number as former thief Remington Steele. “It was quite interesting for us to see that even if this watch was no longer visible in our boutiques, there was still a very strong appetite for it,” said Cartier’s international marketing and communication director, Arnaud Carrez on the watch that was discontinued in 2004 but still popular in the vintage market.

Sofia Coppola & Andrew DurhamCartier teamed up with America’s award-winning writer, producer and director, Sofia Coppola to produce a short film celebrating the Panthère woman. Here, some stills from the short film which was shot over a couple of days in Los Angeles.
Cartier teamed up with America’s award-winning writer, producer and director, Sofia Coppola to produce a short film celebrating the Panthère woman. Here, some stills from the short film which was shot over a couple of days in Los Angeles.

This year, Cartier is reintroducing Panthère that will make its way to the French house’s core collection alongside other classics such as the Tank and Santos.

The panther has always been dear to Cartier’s heart. It was first used in a watercolour painting commissioned by Louis Cartier in 1914, and he loved it so much that it became synonymous with the brand. While many other jewellery and timepieces bearing the panther have been produced by Cartier prior, this particular watch translates the graceful agility of this powerful feline into its round, curvaceous bracelet.

Sofia Coppola & Andrew Durham
 

The redux design of Panthère bears many similarities to the original: a square case with screwed-down bezel, Roman numerals and a linked brick-lay bracelet with concealed folding clasp. Its quartz movement also keeps the watch elegantly thin and true to the original design, which was first launched during the height of the quartz era. What’s new is its bracelet construction that sits more supple and smooth around the wrist, making it a gleaming statement piece, perfect for mixing and matching with other jewellery pieces.

In anticipation of the Panthère’s grand return in June, Cartier has teamed up with America’s award-winning writer, producer and director, Sofia Coppola to produce a short film celebrating the original Panthère woman. “When the Panthère watch came out in 1983, there were so many great movies, and I love the stars of that time. I remember the glamorous kind of women who wore a Panthère watch. It was just a stylish time to remember and to propose a modern interpretation of it,” says Coppola. While the film will only be released in June, here is a sneak peak of her work-in-progress.

Sofia Coppola & Andrew Durham
 
Sofia Coppola & Andrew DurhamWhile the short film will only be released in June, Sofia Coppola shares her storyboard that depicts her modern interpretation of the Panthère woman.
While the short film will only be released in June, Sofia Coppola shares her storyboard that depicts her modern interpretation of the Panthère woman.

Find Panthère de Cartier collections here.