Home - T Singapore

In Jewellery, Matching Just Isn’t Cool Anymore

By Ming Liu

Valérie Messika, the founder and creative director of the jewelry line Messika, in Paris, Oct. 10, 2017. Fashion’s trend for bold mixes has moved into the world of precious metals and gemstones. “By purchasing two single earrings and wearing them together, you essentially buy into two trends in one go,” Messika said.
 
Dmitry Kostyukov
Valérie Messika, the founder and creative director of the jewelry line Messika, in Paris, Oct. 10, 2017. Fashion’s trend for bold mixes has moved into the world of precious metals and gemstones. “By purchasing two single earrings and wearing them together, you essentially buy into two trends in one go,” Messika said.

Move over matchy-matchy: Fashion’s trend for bold mashups of contrasting prints and colours is making its way into the world of jewellery.

“Customers are increasingly interested in asymmetric jewellery, especially earrings,” said Natalie Kingham, buying director at fashion retailer MatchesFashion.com. Earrings, long a loving pair, are especially ripe for this look and are being uncoupled into mismatched shapes, sizes or different coloured stones.

“It allows customers to express their individuality,” Kingham said. (And, for those of us unfortunate enough to lose an earring, the ability to keep wearing the one we still have.)

Valérie Messika, the founder and creative director of Messika, has been a fan of asymmetry from day one. Many industry experts credit her Parisian diamond jewellery brand with infusing a much-needed lightness into the convention-laden diamond stone.

“Even around 15 years ago when I first started out, I always felt I looked older in a full set of diamonds or matching diamond earrings,” she said. “I wanted to break the codes — to do something more cool and rock ‘n’ roll.”

Messika’s latest high jewellery line, themed around 1920s Paris, includes the lobe-hugging Roaring Diamonds that combine a flamboyant ear cuff with a more pared-back twin, featuring inverted pear-shaped diamonds. The diamond cluster Mata Hari pair — again one large and the other small — evoked the flair and boldness of its namesake, the Dutch exotic dancer and courtesan who was executed in 1917 for espionage. The design nearly covers the entire ear, which is partly why Messika went with what she called one “wow piece” and a softer one. “Otherwise it’s too bling-bling.”

On the fine jewellery side, the tribal-themed Thea triangle studs come in clashing sizes or a strand version that misfits long with short. Fashion, as ever, is Messika’s cue. “Wearing a very precious and delicate diamond today is like pairing frayed, ripped jeans with a beautiful pair of designer shoes. It’s more unexpected. I like the mix of sensibilities.”

Dmitry KostyukovMata Hari earrings in gold and diamonds, made by Messika.
Mata Hari earrings in gold and diamonds, made by Messika.

In the designer’s new collaboration with Gigi Hadid, a G-shaped earring is adorned with a single diamond to create a pared-back version of Messika’s best-selling three-diamond Move earrings — and priced at 840 euros (S$1,349) in an effort to entice a younger (if fairly well-heeled) clientele.

At MatchesFashion.com, individual earrings offer a strong statement look, Kingham said, like Gucci’s chunky lapel-grazing bee earring in grey crystal and faux pearls or Saint Laurent’s punk-like 3-D-carved wheat stalk in gold and silver.

“By purchasing two single earrings and wearing them together, you essentially buy into two trends in one go,” she said.

The retail arrangement also puts styling into the wearer’s hands. At the Australian brand Alinka, founded by the St. Petersburg-born Alina Barlow, now based in Sydney, customers can buy its funky, rebellious earrings as either singles or pairs. The diamond Katia studs, for example, are designed as either one cross or a trio that extends up the ear, creating the illusion of multiple piercings, and are available in white or black diamonds. The Kremlin star-inspired Stasia stacks a large and a small bejeweled star and is equipped with a detachable post so the piece can be worn two ways or combined with other earrings. Like the Katia, they come in either black or white diamonds.

“I wanted a woman to wear whatever mix she feels on the day,” Barlow said. “The idea is to build up your own collection.” An individual earring in the O Drop group — a long gold chain that attaches to any stud earring — could extend the repertoire.

Fans of asymmetrical styling tend be more “fashion-forward and experimental,” Barlow said, but they are not all young. “I had a woman in her 60s try on the pieces and loved the mix.”

The Stone jewellery brand in Paris, the Danish house Georg Jensen and fashion-designer-turned jeweller Diane Kordas are other makers who have included single earrings in their collections.

But some of the most traditional haute joaillerie houses have been seduced by asymmetry as well.

Dmitry KostyukovValérie Messika, the founder and creative director of the jewellery line Messika.
Valérie Messika, the founder and creative director of the jewellery line Messika.

Asymmetry does give designers a creative boost. Celestial designs have been trending for a few seasons now but London jewellery house Vant suspended mismatched moon and sun rock crystals from planetary studs, and jeweller Sabine Roemer paired a simple diamond star stud with three strands of stars in glittering sapphires and fluorites cascading from a monochrome moon. Roemer also created an agate cameo from two stones that were bought years apart. One is a portrait in green, the other a group of women rendered in blue, and detailing in green fluorites, topaz and amethysts to harmonise it all.

“Asymmetric earrings, of course, should be matching or seem to be but there’s an element of the unexpected that I like,” Roemer said. “The look gives me the space to create within one piece.”

Bibi van der Velden, the owner and curator of the online jewellery retailer Auverture, agreed. A designer herself and self-proclaimed champion of asymmetric styles, she stocks artist-jewellers who push the form, like Ileana Makri and her mystical eye studs and Gaelle Khouri, whose latest collection of single earrings looped structural, intertwined rings.

Van der Velden’s own approach to the style is especially playful, like her pair of cheeky, bejewelled monkeys gripping oversized lemon-quartz bananas, or a man manoeuvring through a pink sapphire ribboned shell, his legs on one earring, head emerging from the other.

“It’s more interesting to make use of the fact that you’ve two earlobes and the pieces can communicate with each other,” van der Velden said. “Real jewellery does not have to mean boring. We all know the rules but people are continuously breaking them.”