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Sculptural, Gem-Encrusted Jewellery

By Kate Guadagnino

Lauren Coleman. Styled by Victoria Petro-ConroyFrom left: Ana Khouri with the Row emerald ring, emerald cuff and emerald ear piece, made with Fairmined 18-karat gold and ethically sourced gems.

Last summer, the Brazilian-born, New York-based designer Ana Khouri exhibited her high jewellery at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Meanwhile, the American fashion designer Mary-Kate Olsen, who runs The Row with her sister Ashley, was in town as well, and she and Khouri ended up having a rendezvous at the Ritz. The meeting was originally so Olsen could shop for herself, but by the end of the week, they’d decided that The Row stores would start carrying some of Khouri’s latest pieces — and would later partner on a small collection of entirely new ones.

Like many intriguing collaborations, Ana Khouri with The Row, which consists of two black- and white-gold ear cuffs, one slightly larger than the other, and one black- and white-gold ring, all entirely pavéd in emeralds — the ring alone is set with 560 stones — is an unexpected pairing. The Row sells more vintage jewellery than contemporary pieces, and is known for an elegant but austere aesthetic. Yet for all of their decadence, Khouri’s works have a certain restraint. The designer, who trained as a sculptor and still keeps an art studio in Brooklyn, is primarily concerned with form. “She’s a true artist, and it shows in her work,” Ashley Olsen wrote in an email.