Since launching his namesake label in 2012, the British designer Craig Green has thought about showing his collections alfresco. His team has scoured London for rooftops on which to display the brand’s technical, otherworldly men’s wear, “but then we get too scared in case it rains,” he laughs, “which it’s most likely to!” So, when Green received an invitation to present in Florence, as a guest designer at the Pitti Uomo trade show, the time seemed right to finally venture outdoors — to the 16th-century Boboli Gardens.
“The fact that they allowed us to show there, it was quite a surreal thing,” Green reflects. “We thought it would be interesting to see a collection in that environment because, at least outwardly so, it’s so opposite to some of the clothing that we show.” At the forefront of Green’s mind for the spring/summer 2019 season was the notion of perspective. “I always love that idea — I guess it’s a little bit like Cubism — where you’re trying to depict every angle of something on a 2D surface,” he explains. To that end, he created garments from overlaid printed fabrics, “moved ever so slightly off their axis,” to suggest shimmering alternate realities. In Florence, some of the models walked, among the gardens’ Renaissance statues and manicured hedges, wearing abstract sculptures that outlined their bodies, somewhat like halos.
We sent Green a Polaroid camera to document his preparations for the show, including the development of his first collaboration with Nike, on a range of Flyknit apparel and avant-garde sneakers. Below, he shares snapshots of the design process at his London studio and the final fittings in Florence. Showing his work there, he says, “was a once-in-a-lifetime moment.”
Subscribe to our newsletter