In the Victorian era, flowers were used not just for decorative purposes, but to convey specific messages to their recipients. While their meanings may have changed over time, or even been lost altogether (for example the idea that yellow carnations represent disdain), the symbolism of some blooms (like red roses to signify love) seem to have persisted through the years. When it comes to perfumery, flowers too seem to have provided endless inspiration for perfumers who have celebrated the scents that emanate from their petals in all their incarnations — fresh, carnal and even intoxicating.
For the fragrance Lil Fleur by Byredo, the idea behind it was to capture the complex personality of a young spirit, according to the brand’s creative director, Ben Gorham.
“I feel that perfume often tries to capture one idea or one emotion; Lil Fleur is about capturing a complex personality, one we can all recognise. As a brother to a sister and a father to a daughter, in my experience it does not get more beautiful and interesting than the personalities of a young spirit,” says Gorham. The fragrance revolves around the heart note of damask rose oil, but includes fruity touches of cassis and tangerine as well as saffron, ambergris and vanilla. Despite the implications behind its name, the scent is an oriental floral that can actually be worn by men or women.
The perfumes under the fashion designer and filmmaker Tom Ford often have a certain tongue-in-cheek quality and Rose Prick, a spicy rose scent is no exception.
“Inspired by my own rose garden, Rose Prick is a wild bouquet of intoxicating and rare hybrids,” says Ford. Three kinds of roses — rose de mai, Turkish rose and Bulgarian rose — are used in the scent, while other ingredients like Indonesian patchouli and tonka give it a multi-faceted quality, resulting in a complex fragrance that is sharp, but also warm and sensual.
Armani Prive is the exclusive perfumery line under Giorgio Armani’s cosmetics and fragrance empire. Originally conceived as a private collection for Mr Armani’s closest friends, it was so well-received that the decision was taken to produce it commercially. Jasmine Kusamono, created by perfumer Dominique Ropion, is a floral aquatic defined by a floral heart of jasmine sambac, lily-of-the-valley, and orange blossom. Top notes include nashi pear and pink pepper, while base notes of cedar and sandalwood add a touch of depth to this airy scent.
Chloé’s signature scents are constantly updated with new twists and this year, perfumers Sidonie Lancesseur and Michel Almairac created Rose Tangerine. With this iteration, the rose takes on a fruit-inspired twist, with vivid notes of blackcurrant and the essence of effervescent tangerine lending a lightness and radiance to the scent, while the bottle retains the classic pleated glass that is a signature of the scent.
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