How France's Ban on Forever Chemicals Affects Popular Clothing Brands
Manufacturers around the globe are keeping a close eye on the latest ruling by French lawmakers.
Last week, France approved a landmark ban on PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl), human-made chemicals in everyday items such as food packaging, cookware, and cosmetics.
The forever chemicals have been the subject of a firefighting lawsuit in the U.S. Aqueous Film-Forming Foam (AFFF), initially used by military personnel, airports, and firefighters, has been linked to kidney cancer and thyroid cancer.
Case in Point: Toxic Firefighting Foam
For decades, environmentalists and researchers have warned the public about the detrimental effects of PFAS, found in AFFF firefighting foam. This has triggered the AFFF lawsuit.
Plaintiffs claim AFFF manufacturers knew about the toxic firefighting foam and the effects of AFFF exposure. In addition, scientists found that PFAS takes longer to break down, remaining in the human body and environment indefinitely.
TruLaw says despite more than 10,000 AFFF firefighting foam cases being filed, no trials or global settlements have occurred yet for personal injury claims.
Now that France has taken it upon itself to ban the forever chemicals in cosmetics, ski wax and clothing, the move has given fashion labels food for thought.
Where does this leave brands that have traces of PFAS in their clothing? We’ll explore further below.
Affected Clothing Items
Waterproof clothing worn mostly by hikers is the main culprit. Research released by Ethical Consumer shows that 82% of the 27 companies examined used PFAS in fleeces, waterproof jackets and walking boots.
The U.K. government is considering restricting PFAS in consumer products but finding alternatives remains a stumbling block.
The magazine tells The Guardian that substitutes exist and brands like Páramo and Patagonia are mostly PFAS-free. A dozen more companies plan to phase out the forever chemicals by the end of this year.
Ethical Consumer’s Jane Turner says most outdoor clothing brands using PFAS are adding to the pollution burden.
Repeat Offenders
South Korean authorities claim accessories sold by popular online stores contain toxic substances a hundred times over the acceptable levels.
The explosive growth of fast fashion stores like Temu and Shein resulted in increased scrutiny of these companies’ business practices. Le Monde reported that recent inspections showed multiple products from Shein, AliExpress and Temu failed to meet legal requirements.
Caps contained twice the legal limit of formaldehyde, a chemical used in home building products. Seoul authorities found sandals had insole lead levels over 11 times the legal limit.
Fashion’s Sustainability Promise
The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water and is responsible for 2 to 8% of global carbon emissions, says Geneva Environment Network.
Because of the industry’s immense environmental impact, the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion wants to halt the destructive practices of fashion. The Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Change was launched as a call to action.
Unfortunately, the sector has been continuously accused of greenwashing its sustainable endeavors.
According to the 2024 Remake Fashion Accountability Report, brands did little to improve their practices. About 52 companies were assessed, with average scores of 15% or less in each category.
While more than half of the brands have short-term emissions targets, few fund supply chain decarbonization at the necessary scale.
The report also found that while companies reduced toxic chemical use, none addressed past environmental damage near factories and dye houses.
The Road Ahead
France’s ban on PFAS could have far-reaching consequences for the rest of the EU.
Although the new bill excludes clothing and footwear for protective and safety purposes, the nation has been lauded for its proactive stance on public health.
ClientEarth tells Just Style top EU officials must act now to implement stricter PFAS restrictions for consumer and industrial use.
Advocates are urging a universal EU ban on PFAS to protect Europe, covering uses in clothing, cookware, and automobiles.
Despite the troubling news, about 14 U.S. states adopted measures to ban PFAS in clothing manufacturing.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) finalized regulations that prevent companies from starting or resuming the manufacture or processing of 329 PFAS.
Associate professor of pharmacology and toxicology Jamie Alan tells Women’s Health you don’t necessarily need to get rid of a garment containing PFAS. Instead, Alan says eating PFAS in food is more likely to cause health risks.
Given the widespread presence of PFAS in our environment, it's important to be aware of your overall exposure so you can make informed decisions about what to avoid.
Going forward, it’s time you educate yourself as a consumer on which items are a no-go. And as far as experts can tell, the fashion industry has a long way to go in eradicating toxic forever chemicals.