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All the Best Pictures From the Men’s Fashion Shows

By Alex Tudela

Dior Men fall 2020.
 
Kevin Tachman
Dior Men fall 2020.

The fall 2020 men’s shows have now come to a close, but T’s photographers were on the ground to catch all of the action in London, Florence, Milan and Paris. Here, our day-by-day recaps, along with our favourite images from the runways.

PARIS

Catholicism and club culture were the two seemingly unlikely references that defined Palomo Spain’s latest collection. Priestly brocades and virginal lace clashed with electric neon tailoring, which was inspired by both 1990s raves and the vivid colours of El Greco’s Spanish renaissance paintings. Indeed, it looked at times as if that artist’s androgynous subjects had walked off the canvas and onto the show’s catwalk.

Kevin TachmanPalomo Spain fall 2020.
Palomo Spain fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanPalomo Spain fall 2020.
Palomo Spain fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanPalomo Spain fall 2020.
Palomo Spain fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanPalomo Spain fall 2020.
Palomo Spain fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanPalomo Spain fall 2020.
Palomo Spain fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanPalomo Spain fall 2020.
Palomo Spain fall 2020.

For his first show in Paris, the London-based designer Craig Green continued to develop his concept of a futuristic nomad with a collection that transformed utilitarian materials such as padding, rubber webbing and tent-like structures into artistic abstractions. Themes of packing and packaging ran though the collection; wearing layered ensembles of quilted outerwear, protective vests, work pants and ponchos, models appeared like men who must carry everything with them on their bodies, like marching soldiers.

Elodie ChapuisCraig Green fall 2020.
Craig Green fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisCraig Green fall 2020.
Craig Green fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisCraig Green fall 2020.
Craig Green fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisCraig Green fall 2020.
Craig Green fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisCraig Green fall 2020.
Craig Green fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisCraig Green fall 2020.
Craig Green fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisCraig Green fall 2020.
Craig Green fall 2020.

PARIS

Jonathan Anderson’s latest men’s collection for Loewe, presented in a subterranean room at the UNESCO World Heritage Center, was a study in playful contradictions. Each piece contained a combination of contrasting shapes, showcasing Anderson’s knack for clever construction. A ladylike lamé prom dress formed an apron of sorts, tied around a men’s double-breasted suit; elongated button-down shirts came with satin leg-of-mutton sleeves; and capes morphed into coats. An underlying motif of childlike animal imagery — necklaces with seal-shaped pendants and oversized bags that resembled elephants — gave the collection a tongue-in-cheek attitude.

Elodie ChapuisLoewe fall 2020.
Loewe fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisLoewe fall 2020.
Loewe fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisLoewe fall 2020.
Loewe fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisLoewe fall 2020.
Loewe fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisLoewe fall 2020.
Loewe fall 2020.

PARIS

The punk ethos of the British stylist Judy Blame permeated the Dior show. At the core of the collection was the romantic tailored couture that Kim Jones has established as a new code for the house, but it was shot through with references to Blame’s iconoclastic D.I.Y. approach: bifurcated bomber jackets, tattered ribbed knits, paisley-print shirting, berets and dangling chain accessories. Zippered detailing and safety-pin accents highlighted the intricate artistry of the tailoring and nodded to Blame’s lasting influence.

Kevin TachmanDior Men fall 2020.
Dior Men fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanDior Men fall 2020.
Dior Men fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanDior Men fall 2020.
Dior Men fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanDior Men fall 2020.
Dior Men fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanDior Men fall 2020.
Dior Men fall 2020.

There was a youthful exuberance at the Comme des Garçons Homme Plus show as groups of models in box-braid wigs frenetically crisscrossed the catwalk in colorful patchwork suiting that combined clashing tartans, harlequin prints and kaleidoscopic leopard patterns. It was a collection that Rei Kawakubo described as a “colorful resistance,” and it provided an array of pieces to combat humdrum everyday clothing: aside from the spirited tailoring there were sweaters with vibrant checkerboard motifs, rainbow-striped leggings and hairy pastel bibs.

Elodie ChapuisComme des Garçons fall 2020.
Comme des Garçons fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisComme des Garçons fall 2020.
Comme des Garçons fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisComme des Garçons fall 2020.
Comme des Garçons fall 2020.
Elodie ChapuisComme des Garçons fall 2020.
Comme des Garçons fall 2020.

PARIS

Virgil Abloh’s fourth collection as the men’s creative director of Louis Vuitton offered a surprising reconsideration of the term “streetwear.” Instead of the luxurious hoodies, denim and sneakers that Abloh helped bring to the forefront of men’s fashion, he turned his attention to the suit and considered the ways real men continue to wear the traditional garment in an urban setting. With cutout detailing, crystal embellishments, ruffled hems and trompe l’oeil elements, his tailoring demonstrated couture-level craftsmanship. But when paired with sporty anoraks, leather bomber jackets, angular Chelsea boots and surreal curved weekend bags and monogrammed briefcases, the vast array of suits seemed as important a feature of streetwear as any sneaker.

Molly SJ LoweLouis Vuitton fall 2020.
Louis Vuitton fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweLouis Vuitton fall 2020.
Louis Vuitton fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweLouis Vuitton fall 2020.
Louis Vuitton fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweLouis Vuitton fall 2020.
Louis Vuitton fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweLouis Vuitton fall 2020.
Louis Vuitton fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweLouis Vuitton fall 2020.
Louis Vuitton fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweLouis Vuitton fall 2020.
Louis Vuitton fall 2020.

For his fall 2020 men’s wear show, Rick Owens transformed lithe models into spindly alien creatures of the future. Asymmetric cashmere unitards — some with an exposed thigh, shoulder or midriff — were worn underneath vinyl cocoon coats and cropped jackets with accentuated shoulders. The collection also contrasted softness and rigidity with several looks comprising motocross suits cut from reptile leather and flowing satin pyjamas.

Molly SJ LoweRick Owens fall 2020.
Rick Owens fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweRick Owens fall 2020.
Rick Owens fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweRick Owens fall 2020.
Rick Owens fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweRick Owens fall 2020.
Rick Owens fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweRick Owens fall 2020.
Rick Owens fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweRick Owens fall 2020.
Rick Owens fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweRick Owens fall 2020.
Rick Owens fall 2020.

PARIS

Is there life on Mars? This seems to be the question Raf Simons asked during his fall men’s show, held in a warehouse just outside Paris, as the models walked during the finale to the famous David Bowie song. What would the youth wear after leaving this planet? For Simons, the answer was boxy military coats (some wrapped in plastic), shiny turtleneck base layers, torso-hugging midcentury capelets, fur-trimmed muffs and svelte zippered space boots.

Kevin TachmanRaf Simons fall 2020.
Raf Simons fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanRaf Simons fall 2020.
Raf Simons fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanRaf Simons fall 2020.
Raf Simons fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanRaf Simons fall 2020.
Raf Simons fall 2020.
Kevin TachmanRaf Simons fall 2020.
Raf Simons fall 2020.

MILAN

Older notions of masculinity and femininity converged on Gucci’s fall 2020 runway, marking the fashion house’s return to the men’s wear calendar after several years of showing during the women’s wear shows. One model, draped in the kind of slouchy tweed coat you might find in your grandfather’s closet, held a granny-esque red leather handbag; schoolboy suits and tailored overcoats met their matches in Mary Jane shoes, fuzzy pastel knits and baby-doll dresses (the resulting outfits were reminiscent of Kurt Cobain’s subversive, gender-bending style). But the fluidity of Alessandro Michele’s androgynous aesthetic was perhaps best illustrated by a giant pendulum that swung across the catwalk.

Molly SJ LoweGucci fall 2020.
Gucci fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweGucci fall 2020.
Gucci fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweGucci fall 2020.
Gucci fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweGucci fall 2020.
Gucci fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweGucci fall 2020.
Gucci fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweGucci fall 2020.
Gucci fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweGucci fall 2020.
Gucci fall 2020.

MILAN

At the Fendi fall 2020 show, very little was what it seemed. Silvia Venturini Fendi experimented with traditional men’s wear pieces, presenting a collection that consisted of inside-out suiting, high-waisted pinstripe trousers spliced with skirts, reversible outerwear, jackets with trompe l’oeil detailing — and yellow Fendi shopping bags rendered as leather handbags. The finale of quilted coats, which changed colour upon exposure to UV light, drove home the idea to expect the unexpected.

Molly SJ LoweFendi fall 2020.
Fendi fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweFendi fall 2020.
Fendi fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweFendi fall 2020.
Fendi fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweFendi fall 2020.
Fendi fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweFendi fall 2020.
Fendi fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweFendi fall 2020.
Fendi fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweFendi fall 2020.
Fendi fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweFendi fall 2020.
Fendi fall 2020.

MILAN

Each Prada collection is rife with references and far-reaching ideas, and this one was no exception; the overarching theme appeared to be the collapse of different sartorial eras. Razor-sharp 1980s tailoring and Kraftwerk-style neckties were worn with ’70s-inspired corduroy and shearling outerwear; colourful’60s-esque geometric motifs were seen on chunky knitwear, utilitarian outerwear and modernized shirting — some adorned with Victorian ruffle trims; stirrup trousers and square-toed riding boots alluded to equestrians from a make-believe world. With an oversize clock mounted on the stage wall — its hands frozen at the fourth hour — it was as though time had, in fact, stood still and the past, present and future mingled.

Molly SJ LowePrada fall 2020.
Prada fall 2020.
Molly SJ LowePrada fall 2020.
Prada fall 2020.
Molly SJ LowePrada fall 2020.
Prada fall 2020.
Molly SJ LowePrada fall 2020.
Prada fall 2020.
Molly SJ LowePrada fall 2020.
Prada fall 2020.

Classic Italian tailoring was imbued with youthful ease for Salvatore Ferragamo’s fall 2020 men’s wear collection, for which the creative director, Paul Andrew, and his design team modernized, and played with, various male archetypes — like businessmen, soldiers, surfers and bikers. Andrew layered baggy shorts over pinstripe suiting, cut Hawaiian-inspired prints into cargo pants (and then paired with nautical knits) and made coveralls from leather, instead of denim.

Molly SJ LoweSalvatore Ferragamo fall 2020.
Salvatore Ferragamo fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweSalvatore Ferragamo fall 2020.
Salvatore Ferragamo fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweSalvatore Ferragamo fall 2020.
Salvatore Ferragamo fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweSalvatore Ferragamo fall 2020.
Salvatore Ferragamo fall 2020.

MILAN

To see Marni’s latest men’s collection, guests journeyed through neon-lit metal tunnels within a warehouse on the outskirts of Milan before finding themselves by an illuminated dance floor where glistening models, already mid-trance, were dancing to thumping music in slow-motion. The clothing, fit for a rave, was a riot of colour in psychedelic patterns and clashing proportions: There were hearts and smiley faces printed on matching tops and pants, shrunken polos layered over boldly striped T-shirts, oversize polka dots on supersize shirting and retro racer-back tank tops. Tattered and dissected overcoats, baggy suiting and primary-hued knitwear rounded out a collection made for the club.

Molly SJ LoweMarni fall 2020.
Marni fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni fall 2020.
Marni fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni fall 2020.
Marni fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni fall 2020.
Marni fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni fall 2020.
Marni fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni fall 2020.
Marni fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni fall 2020.
Marni fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni fall 2020.
Marni fall 2020.

FLORENCE

The married creative directors of Jil SanderLuke and Lucie Meier, staged their latest show in Florence, Italy — where they first met in the early aughts while studying fashion — as special guests at the biannual trade show Pitti Uomo. The duo continued to redefine the Jil Sander man with a runway show that artfully combined the brand’s signature ascetic tailoring with the couple’s softer touches. Models marched in front of gigantic heaps of marigold petals, wearing a collection of strong-shouldered jackets and capes, both flecked with silver pendants, cozy Shetland knitwear, artisanal fringed scarves and voluminous trousers.

Molly SJ LoweJil Sander fall 2020.
Jil Sander fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweJil Sander fall 2020.
Jil Sander fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweJil Sander fall 2020.
Jil Sander fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweJil Sander fall 2020.
Jil Sander fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweJil Sander fall 2020.
Jil Sander fall 2020.
Molly SJ LoweJil Sander fall 2020.
Jil Sander fall 2020.