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Runway Report: Seven Set Designs From Men's Fashion Week
Highlights from Dior Homme, Fendi, Berluti and more.
By T: The New York Times Style Magazine
/23 January 2018
The French maison unveiled their fall winter 2018 menswear instalment at the Grand Palais in Paris on the 20th January 2018. The centrepiece of the set were glass cases of disco-coloured light bars, titled "Forever Young". It's synonymous with the collection's 1990s youth and clubbing culture inspiration–otherwise "the Dior man's youth".
"I find the 1990s particularly inspiring because ultimately they represent my own youth," creative director Kris van Assche revealed in a post-show video interview.
The runway was transformed into an arrivals hall for the Fendi men's fall winter 2018 show on the 15th January 2018. Luggages circled the conveyor belt as models strutted in a wardrobe of travel-ready, reversible clothes.
It's been a year since Haider Ackermann made his debut at Berluti. Hours prior to the show on the 19th January 2018, the designer posted a preview of his all-pink runway on his personal Instagram account – a surprising move for the quintessential Parisian menswear brand. There were no lofty ideas behind the dusty pink set design. In fact, Ackermann had quietness in his mind. On the clothes, the designer expressed in the show notes, "As time goes by, the wearer's personality becomes embedded in the clothes so that they become intimate and filled with emotions."
In the previous collection, spring summer 2018 that showed last year in June, Andreas Melbostad, the creative director behind Diesel Black Gold, told Vogue that he "wanted the catwalk built as an actual street". He wanted to replicate the industrial, urban space–also where his clothes actually belongs.
It seems, with the latest fall winter 2018 men's collection presented on the 13th January 2018 in Milan, Melbostad had similar intentions. The set was built like a giant scramble crossing with yellow and black markings on the grey, concrete floors. In his clothes, he injected a new facet to urban living–multiculturalism. It's a literal representation of a scramble crossing in New York City, where the designer lives.
Hundreds of spotlights pervaded the show venue at Lanvin's fall winter 2018 men's collection on the 21st January 2018 in Paris. The brand's menswear creative director, Lucas Ossendrijver had one thing in mind—to bring the suit back into the light. "I focussed on the most classic, almost passé item, drawn directly from the legacy and origin of the Lanvin man: the suit. What is a suit? Two pieces, a jacket and trousers, cut from the same fabric," he explained in the show notes.
The collection showed on the 18th January 2018 at the French Post Office's former sorting office.
The Emporio Armani menswear fall winter 2018 collection showed on the 13th January 2018 in Milan.
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