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T October Cover: A Grand Return to Unabashed Femininity

By Renée Batchelor

 
Tom Munro
 

For the modern woman of today, her wardrobe options are (almost) endless. While the rise of streetwear and the continued embrace of power suiting define perhaps two corners of the triangle in a woman’s wardrobe, there has also been an unapologetic return to all things pretty and feminine. 

This season, fashion designers are serving up platters of ruffles, oversized puff shoulders, head-to-toe florals and outfits with OTT embellishments. At Halpern, designer Michael Halpern may be known for crafting sequinned masterpieces, but he is just as masterful with other materials and textures like lamé and pom-poms, creating an almost decadent vision of nighttime glamour. Self-Portrait designer Han Chong continues his love affair with lace, but he gives it a more masculine edge by pairing his signature guipure lace fabric and soft ruffles with sharp tailoring. Meanwhile, at Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton seems to have an almost instinctual understanding of the right kind of body-conscious ruffles and shirring that evoke a modern romantic vibe. 

And when it comes to florals, the mood this fall seems to be darkly romantic. Richard Quinn offers a more optimistic vision in head-to-toe prints that almost swathe the wearer in swirls of rose petals while at Coach, Stuart Vevers dived into the archives of celebrated textile designer Kaffe Fassett for inspiration. His team picked Fassett’s large scale blooms and transformed the artist’s hot jewel tones into a muted palette of maroons, moss greens and greys, adorning everything from diaphanous shirt dresses to lurex sweaters. 

Finally, Erdem’s vision of femininity has always included a sophisticated take on floral prints, and the brand’s blend of hand-crafted techniques, such as paillettes and embroidery, are the perfect contrast to the almost-masculine silhouettes of some of its pieces, such as its oversized coats. The Fall/Winter ’19 collections seem to indicate that designers think that women are in the mood for some frippery — frills and all. 

Tom MunroLeft: Halpern dress. Right: Richard Quinn coat, top and tights.
Left: Halpern dress. Right: Richard Quinn coat, top and tights.
Tom MunroLeft: Self-Portrait coat, top and shorts. Right: Alexander McQueen dress.
Left: Self-Portrait coat, top and shorts. Right: Alexander McQueen dress.
Tom MunroLeft: Coach dress. Right: Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello dress.
Left: Coach dress. Right: Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello dress.
Tom MunroLeft: Alexander McQueen dress. Opposite: Chanel scarf.
Left: Alexander McQueen dress. Opposite: Chanel scarf.
Tom MunroLeft: Gucci shirt and dress. Right: Erdem coat.
Left: Gucci shirt and dress. Right: Erdem coat.
Photographs by Tom Munro
Styled by Jack Wang
Makeup by Jenny Coombs at Streeters
Hair by Franco Gobbi at Streeters
Manicure by Michelle Humphrey at LMC
Model: Giedre Dukauskaite at Women Paris
Set design by Julia Dias at The Wall Group
Photographer’s assistants: Tom Hill, David Jenewein, Russell Higton
Digital operator: Laimonas Stasiulis
Post production & digital manager: Giuliano Berarducci
Stylist’s assistant: Harriet Elton
Casting director: Neill Seeto at IMA Casting
Producer: Anna Rybus at Prospero Production