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The Best of Milan Fashion Week, in Pictures

By T: The New York Times Style Magazine

Versace spring 2020.
 
Kevin Tachman
Versace spring 2020.

Along the water’s edge of the Bagni Misteriosi, a sprawling 1937 pool that has been recently restored, the Missoni creative director Angela Missoni sent models down the runway holding scarf-wrapped baskets of garden flowers, a springy symbol of ’60s insouciance immortalised by Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg and revisited for this collection. Patchworks, zigzags, florals and stripes collided together in the collection — after all, nothing clashes in the free-spirited world of Missoni knits — and, as the politically minded designer paid homage to the day’s Global Climate Strike, models processed while holding solar-powered lamps by the artist Olafur Eliasson for the finale.

Molly SJ Lowe Missoni spring 2020.
Missoni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMissoni spring 2020.
Missoni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMissoni spring 2020.
Missoni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMissoni spring 2020.
Missoni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMissoni spring 2020.
Missoni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMissoni spring 2020.
Missoni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMissoni spring 2020.
Missoni spring 2020.
Tiziana Fabi/Getty Images
 
Molly SJ LoweMissoni spring 2020.
Missoni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMissoni spring 2020.
Missoni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMissoni spring 2020.
Missoni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMissoni spring 2020.
Missoni spring 2020.

In the sunny portico of a medieval-era hospital, the creative director Paul Andrew showed a collection for Ferragamo that was both leisure-friendly and luxurious. In springy hues, the men’s and women’s clothes — including boxy, workwear-inspired shirts and jackets, paper bag trousers, a pair of flowing caftans — exuded a pared-down ease. It was a response to what Andrew called today’s “demand to be comfortable,” though, he conceded, “I’m never going to make a Ferragamo hoodie.” Shoes were equally inviting: the house’s iconic Vara pump from 1978 was reimagined with an unlined interior, a pointy toe and a low teardrop heel, inspired by Richard Serra’s monolithic torqued sculptures.

Kevin Tachman
 
Kevin TachmanFerragamo spring 2020.
Ferragamo spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFerragamo spring 2020.
Ferragamo spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFerragamo spring 2020.
Ferragamo spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFerragamo spring 2020.
Ferragamo spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFerragamo spring 2020.
Ferragamo spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFerragamo spring 2020.
Ferragamo spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFerragamo spring 2020.
Ferragamo spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFerragamo spring 2020.
Ferragamo spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFerragamo spring 2020.
Ferragamo spring 2020.

Jennifer Lopez stalked the Versace runway in what could only be described as a power move for two: for the star herself, whose incandescent magnificence and hip-banging walk made even high-profile models seem prosaic, and for Donatella Versace, the designer of the belly-revealing, curve-loving jungle dress from 2000 that J. Lo proved can still bring a crowd to its feet. Versace may have been designing for the next powerhouse diva with the collection, which featured padded shoulders and puff sleeves, bustiers and dresses that revealed vast swathes of skin. She presented it under a recreation of the monumental dome of the Pantheon. In short, Versace was daring anyone to expect anything less than legendary from her.

Kevin TachmanVersace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanVersace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.
Kevin Tachman Versace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.
Kevin Tachman Versace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanVersace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanVersace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanVersace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanVersace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanVersace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanVersace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanVersace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanVersace spring 2020.
Versace spring 2020.

The models at Marni paced the runway in frayed-edge garments that were sometimes ripped and sometimes tied up like sarongs, recalling what the creative director Francesco Risso described as “couture nostalgic.” Inspired by a trip to Brazil, the clothes came in tropical colours and big, hand-painted florals in cuts that fell off shoulders and revealed models’ stomachs and backs. After Risso’s men’s wear show, which was held under a netted sea of discarded plastic, the show — with its sustainable, organic, recycled, and recouped fabrics and Amazonian references — presented women as “tree-huggers,” the designer said.

Molly SJ LoweMarni spring 2020.
Marni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni spring 2020.
Marni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni spring 2020.
Marni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni spring 2020.
Marni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni spring 2020.
Marni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni spring 2020.
Marni spring 2020.
Molly SJ Lowe
 
Molly SJ LoweMarni spring 2020.
Marni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni spring 2020.
Marni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni spring 2020.
Marni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni spring 2020.
Marni spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMarni spring 2020.
Marni spring 2020.

Jeremy Scott’s inspirations are often delightfully lowbrow, but his Moschino show this season was a jaunt into the lofty world of art. The designer drew on the iconography of Pablo Picasso, transforming his best-known motifs into madcap, theatrical garments — a dress adorned with a colourful Cubist guitar, blouses with exaggerated shoulders that appeared flattened into two dimensions — that still felt just as Pop as ever. Models emerged through a carved gilt frame, and one even wore a wide, boxy dress version, its edges embroidered to three dimensions with gold thread and filled with a canvas of a Cubist nude that covered the model’s body. “Artists inspire the world,” Scott wrote in the show notes.

Molly SJ Lowe Moschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Molly SJ Lowe Moschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMoschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMoschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMoschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMoschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMoschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMoschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMoschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMoschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMoschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
 
Molly SJ LoweMoschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.
Molly SJ LoweMoschino spring 2020.
Moschino spring 2020.

Fendi debuted its first women’s wear collection since Karl Lagerfeld’s death. The brand’s creative direction now falls entirely to Silvia Fendi, who already headed the men’s wear and accessories lines. And yet Lagerfeld’s same elegant sense of silhouette prevailed, with cropped jackets, robe coats and voluminous shorts floating delicately down the runway. Perhaps the biggest revolution was a distinctively nostalgic print of ’60s-era flowers, whose bright colours covered some of the collection’s ubiquitous quilting and even a zigzag-shaved fur coat. Fendi emerged after the show to take a bow in front of the runway’s glowing red sunset illumination, as the “Hair” anthem “Let the Sunshine In” cheerfully blared.

Kevin TachmanFendi spring 2020.
Fendi spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFendi spring 2020.
Fendi spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFendi spring 2020.
Fendi spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFendi spring 2020.
Fendi spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFendi spring 2020.
Fendi spring 2020.
Kevin TachmanFendi spring 2020.
Fendi spring 2020.

In the cavernous ground-floor hall of the Prada Foundation’s tower, Miuccia Prada renounced the quick turnover of fashion in favor of enduring personal style. She championed clothing designed to outlast the cycle of seasons. “I tried to work so that the person is more important,” she said backstage, offering “more simple, less useless stuff.” The first look, her favourite of the show, was a straightforward collared sweater and shin-length skirt — a timeless look, like the silk gauze dresses and slim tailored blazers that followed.

Alessandro Garofalo/ReutersPrada spring 2020.
Prada spring 2020.
Luca Bruno/Associated PressPrada spring 2020.
Prada spring 2020.
Alessandro Garofalo/ReutersPrada spring 2020.
Prada spring 2020.
Daniel Dal Zennaro/EPAPrada spring 2020.
Prada spring 2020.
Luca Bruno/Associated PressPrada spring 2020.
Prada spring 2020.
Alessandro Garofalo/ReutersPrada spring 2020.
Prada spring 2020.
Tiziana Fabi/Getty ImagesPrada spring 2020.
Prada spring 2020.