1. Charles Jeffrey Had A Breakout Show
The young designer was crowned Emerging Men’s Wear Designer of the Year at last month’s 2017 British Fashion Awards — and with his fall/winter 2018 men’s show, he proved that he certainly earned the distinction. Never one to shy away from the theatrical, Jeffrey’s very personal runway show began with ghoulish performers moving about the show venue in a screaming-and-howling rage, which he said was intended to highlight the challenges of a queer upbringing. The performance — which was choreographed by Jeffrey’s friend and longtime collaborator Theo Adams — featured dancers throwing themselves onto the crowd. The collection, his strongest yet, revealed remnants of Jeffrey’s Scottish background (tartan and heavy knits) mixed with his peculiar yet masterful approach to tailoring. But it was the performance’s scare tactic that left a considerable impression on the attendees even two cities later.
2. Rick Owens Threw an All-Night Rave
Looks 15, 9, and 29 from the Rick Owens Fall Winter 2018 menswear runway.
In December, the designer opened his first retrospective, titled “Subhuman, Inhuman, Superhuman,” at Milan’s Triennale Museum, an exhibition space for contemporary art, architecture and design. It’s a must-see exhibit that displays his garments, objects and furniture in a site-specific installation and that solidifies Owens as a singular designer. But it wasn’t until men’s fashion week that Owens officially celebrated his career retrospective: On Saturday night, Owens held a massive rave at a warehouse. Those brave enough to stay for the duration of the party — which went until 6 a.m. — were treated to a dark and twisted night. Shirtless male models tended the bar, and a roster of experimental D.J.s (or “sound artists”), including Ryoji Ikeda and Shyboi, played music for the revellers. But it was Precious Ebony and her hype performance (featuring bearded men with large fans dancing on tall podiums) that really rallied the crowd.
3. Prada Reinvented its Signature Nylon
From left: look 24 by Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron, look 22 by Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec, and look 25 by Rem Koolhaas.
For her fall men’s show, Miuccia Prada looked back into her archives to create a collection that referenced and remixed some of the house’s past prints and styles, such as the allover banana pattern from Spring 2011, bold blue stripes from Spring 1996 and the fish-and-mermaid illustrations from Spring 2009. In addition to reinterpreting those standouts, Prada invited four architects and designers to reimagine something else from the house’s long history: its signature black nylon, the fabric that started the Prada empire. The results included a backpack meant to be worn in the front, a printed shirt, a fisherman’s apron and a portfolio, created, respectively, by Rem Koolhaas, Herzog & de Meuron, Konstantin Grcic and the duo Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec.
4. An Iconic Milanese House Became a Mob Scene — Thanks to Kendall Jenner
Anyone who has seen Luca Guadagnino’s 2009 film “I Am Love” will know Villa Necchi Campiglio, an iconic modernist home in the center of Milan. The structure, which was built between 1932 and 1935, has proved to be an ideal backdrop for Tod’s men’s wear collections, which have been presented there for the past few seasons. But this January, things felt a little different: To celebrate the new faces of its spring 2018 campaign, Tod’s hosted a cocktail party for Roberto Bolle, an Italian principal dancer at the American Ballet Theatre, and Kendall Jenner. Swarms of fans congregated outside the doors of the historic house; only those lucky enough to get through the congested front door were able to enjoy the reception and meet Bolle and Jenner inside one of the greatest houses in Europe.
5. Two Supermodels Made a Surprise Appearance
When news broke that Kim Jones would leave his post as men’s wear artistic director of Louis Vuitton, speculation started about where he would go next and who would succeed him. Is Jones going to Versace or Burberry? Could it be Virgil Abloh of Off-White to fill the vacant spot at Louis Vuitton? Leave it to Jones to keep up that buzz alive during his last show for Louis Vuitton. Toward the end of the show, the crowd at the Palais Royale broke out in a raucous applause: Naomi Campbell showed up the runway in an LV-monogrammed trench coat, and Kate Moss followed close behind, in a matching trench, to a continued uproar. It was Jones’s final surprise — the cherry on top of his seven-year tenure at Louis Vuitton.
6. There Was a Tender Moment at Balmain
Balmain shows are typically over-the-top productions to complement Olivier Rousteing’s equally over-the-top designs. And this season was no different, but amid the bright lights, thumping music and beaded and chain mail clothing, there was a softer, more unexpected moment that occurred in the front row.
While Cindy Crawford patiently sat in the front row, waiting for the show to begin, she shared with those around her (including the actor Orlando Bloom) that she was there to cheer on her son Presley Gerber, who was cast in the show. Crawford excitedly videotaped her son as soon as he appeared on the runway — and kept the shot rolling as he crossed the entire length of the catwalk. The moment, which can be seen in a video posted on the Instagram account of Anders Christian Madsen, the fashion critic of British Vogue, was a sweet reminder that no matter how rich and famous you may be, a proud mom will always embarrass you.
7. Martine Rose Hosted a Very Personal Dinner
Looks 14 and 41 from Martine Rose's Fall Winter 2018 Men's collection.
Every season it’s a tossup as to how the designer Martine Rose will showcase her latest collection. For the past two seasons, she has held fully-fledged runway shows on the outskirts of London, but in seasons past she has staged quieter presentations — in spring 2015, for example, she showed just one look. And sometimes she doesn’t show at all, which was the case this season. Instead, Rose went to Paris for a buying appointment and quietly released her fall/winter 2018 look book, which featured oversized teddy coats, colourful jean jackets and silk shirts and snakeskin trousers.
But it was a dinner that Rose hosted to celebrate her continued collaboration with Slam Jam (a streetwear distributor) and Napapijri (an activewear brand) that kept her squarely in the center of men’s fashion month. The dinner was held at L’Epi D’or, a small classic Parisian bistro that she closed down for the evening. Rose said she wanted the event to be an insight into her life, a peek inside an authentic “Martine Rose” atmosphere. She filled her guest list with friends and family (her parents and baby son were there), and just a few members of the press — and distributed Polaroid cameras for people to use. All in all, the night felt like a welcome respite from fashion week.
8. Vetements Went to the Flea Market
Looks 8, 53 and 55 from the Vetements Fall Winter 2018 menswear runway.
Ever determined to go against the fashion grain and follow his own rules, Demna Gvasalia decided to present his fall/winter Vetements collection off-calendar and way outside the Paris center, which disrupted the schedule for most fashion editors trying to stay on track with the evening’s lineup of shows. But those who trekked to the Paul Bert Serpette Marché were able to walk through the corridors of one of Paris’s famed flea markets after-hours. Editors sat (without assigned seating) on an assortment of vintage chairs and stools from the many booths that lined the market’s alleys — and shop owners stood proudly in front of their stores watching the passing parade. It wasn’t the first show this season that was held at a furniture-shopping site: In Milan, the young brand Sunnei invited guests to the Nilufar Depot, a three-story warehouse that stocks the gallery dealer Nina Yashar’s design finds.
9. There Were Strides Toward Model Diversity
Looks 1, 4 and 24 from the GmbH Fall Winter mens collection.
It’s always a concern when a show lacks diversity. But this season, a handful of labels made a conscious effort to bring non-white models into their lineups. At Haider Ackermann, more than half of the models were people of colour, and for their first runway presentation, Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby of the Berlin-based brand GmbH, made an effort to cast their show with a range of models that would reflect the diverse world in which we live. “We grew up not even considering that we could be fashion models,” Isik told T. “Southeast Asians or Muslims or transgender people were rarely represented in the fashion world.” To that end, the models who walked in the show were almost entirely of immigrant backgrounds, which made for a promisingly strong debut showing. “We can only shift society’s idea of what beauty is by strong representation,” said Huseby.
10. And the Grey Lady Showed up on the Runway
Jonas Glöer pictured on the left.
It was a surprise, even to our own editors in attendance, to find The New York Times branding appear on not one but two runways this season. At Sacai, everyone’s favourite model, Jonas Glöer, walked down the parking garage ramp in a T-shirt printed with The New York Times’s “Truth …” campaign. Another model wore a hooded sweatshirt emblazoned with the words “Truth. It’s more important now than ever.” It was a strong statement from the designer Chitose Abe, who also wore the T-shirt while giving her final bow.
Immediately after Sacai, the art and fashion collective Études made us do a double take. There was the Grey Lady again, this time with the full New York Times logo on T-shirts, sweatshirts, jackets, scarves and baseball caps. Both moments did leave us to wonder: How much will these items cost compared to the branded pieces offered by our very own New York Times Store?
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